Rock Climbing

Whanganui Bay

Considered by many as the Mecca of North Island rock climbing, the "Bay" is located on the western shores of lake Taupo. This place is a must visit on on your list of climbing areas.

Routes - 200
Grades - 13 to 30
Cliff Heights - 7m to 50m
Rock Type - Rhyolite
Protection - Natural & Fixed

Guide - Whanganui Rock

Access
The entrance is located on SH32, 26km south of the Tihoi Trading Post or 12km north of Kuratau. Access to Whanganue Bay is through private farm land and while you can drive down it is recommended you do so in a 4WD vehicle.

Providing the road is open climbers must park in a newly cleared parking area by the river at the beach. To get there take the newly formed road on the left about 200 meters before the Marae and follow it down past the garden to the camping area. Climbers are no longer permitted to walk or drive past the front of the Marae.

On reaching the bay you should visit Mere (Mary), she lives in the second to last house at the southern end of the bay. To make it easy on her try to visit Mere between the hours of 10.00am-12.00pm daily.

Camping on the beachfronts that are formed by the river and lagoon is still OK however climbers are to show due consideration to any of the family who may also be there. They have first preference and we shouldn’t crowd them out. Camping in front of the existing houses is definitely not permitted and please respect their privacy by walking down on the beach. You may need to hang your food (and rubbish in the trees) as pigs visit the area occasionally.

Some of the families have set up dwellings underneath the Plateau Cliff. Although there is no immediate threat of closure to the cliff to ensure that climbers do not intrude we urge you to behave considerately when climbing above these parts of the cliff. Please keep the noise down and certainly don't use expletives.