New approach to garment design could significantly reduce waste

Her research introduces a Möbius band-inspired approach to garment design — based on a mathematical shape with only one continuous surface — enabling clothing to be woven as complete forms rather than cut and sewn from flat fabric, a process that could significantly reduce textile waste.

Dr Li says her research centred on reimagining how garments are formed from the outset.

Traditional clothing production relies on cutting pattern pieces and stitching them together, often resulting in 15–20 per cent of the material being wasted. Dr Li’s approach instead integrates design and production into a single process, allowing garments to be created directly on the loom.

“It shifts the process from ‘cut-and-sew’ to ‘design-through-making’.”

Dr Li’s interest in sustainable fashion developed when she became increasingly aware of the environmental impact of conventional garment production. That curiosity evolved into a focus on zero-waste design, 3D weaving and continuous garment forms.

She chose to continue her research at Te Kunenga ki Pūrehuroa Massey University, drawn by its reputation for design innovation and support for practice-led research.

Throughout her PhD, Dr Li worked to turn complex ideas into practical textile designs, combining digital tools with hands-on experimentation.

“One of the biggest challenges was bridging the gap between concept and technical realisation — translating abstract ideas into workable textile structures.”

Dr Li’s supervisors Associate Professor Deb Cumming and Professor Faith Kane says “her work has clear potential for real-world application, particularly as the fashion industry seeks more sustainable production systems and methods. By integrating design and making, the research opens up new possibilities for zero-waste fashion and advanced textile manufacturing.”

Dr Li hopes her work contributes to a broader shift in how clothing is understood and produced.

“I hope my work contributes to a shift in mindset, from seeing garments as assembled objects to understanding them as continuous, designed systems.”

Following graduation, she plans to further develop her research while building collaborations with industry to explore how these ideas can be applied in real-world settings.